disclaimer again: no professional here, just a mum sewing at home!
Most European patterns will not include seam allowance. This
holds true for Ottobre Design, Farbenmix, etc.
A common question on the Crafty Mamas forum, is
“ what pattern pieces
do I need to add seam allowance to? “
When it comes to Otto, always be sure to read the instructions completely before you begin, often the cutting instructions for your pattern will list any particular instructions that are extra to the norm.
” The patterns include the necessary eases and hem
allowances, but you always need to add 1 cm for seams. Any exceptions to this
are stated separately.” ( told you so... read your instructions for your pattern ,clearly).
Sounds pretty simple, but it can get a little confusing when
working with lots of pattern pieces!
Otto also tell us ( in the Instruction section) that...
“ the patterns
include hem allowance, button extensions and facing. When cutting out the
garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx 1cm (depending on fabric) to
each edge of the patterns".
So, we need to add a seam allowance to all the edges**, except
our hems,. Otto include a small hem, I sometimes like to increase the depth.
**Necklines. When constructing a garment with a neckline that
is bound, it is not necessary to add a seam allowance to the neckline OR the
neckline binding as it is already included.
This also includes other bound areas ie; t shirt sleeves, spaghetti straps
style tops.
If in doubt, always ask . You can
email me with your pattern query and I will check for you.
So, how to add the Seam Allowance?
If you do a search you will find folks are quite inventive
when it comes to adding their seam allowance, and at what stage they add their
seam allowance. I follow Otto’s advise and prefer to add the seam allowance at
the cutting out stage. I prefer this as it allows me scope to adjust when
cutting out. ie; some fabrics that are clingier, I might want to add more ease
etc.
Some methods of adding seam allowance:
1.
Simply draw on with dressmakers chalk/texta/pencil
on the fabric , using a ruler all around
the edge to measure your preferred seam allowance.
2.
Just wing it, estimate as you cut- you dare
devil you! ( this is my preferred method!)
3.
Using an unthreaded wing tipped sewing machine
needle
4.Using two pencils taped together
5.Rotary cutter with seam allowance guide
attached.
6. Using carbon paper and a tracing wheel.
I guess it is just a matter of finding your fave method.
Adding Seam Allowance in action!
This is a favourite
Otto issue , 2/2002. It
is an oldie ( Non English) but a goodie. The t shirt pattern I have made before
and loved. ( it also has a great spaghetti strap top too).
Here’s the pattern laid out....
Here’s my 1cm seam allowance being measured
and added.
Note I
have not added a seam allowance to the neck front or back.
Here’s my pattern pieces cut, ready to go.
And here is my neckband, cut the recommended 4cm
wide as per my pattern. I don’t cut the length yet, until I see how much
recovery the fabric has. ( more in next tute).
(and here is my bag of neckband 4cm strips, cut from scraps!)
Next tute we will look at..
*Symbols used in Otto patterns
*T shirt- neckband construction , a simple neckband and neckline binding.
We will also have a chat about estimating the length of your neckband piece.
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